Journals

When traveling to old cities with no real streets or cars, it is nearly impossible to give directions. To a visitor, simply saying walk until you see the Lacoste doesn’t cut it . Well, it does, but chances are, the visitor wont find it on the first go. In asking for guidance throughout my trip, the most common thing spoken was “Just go that way and then ask again.”   So, that’s what I did.   When I got off the (right) bus in Split, bag in tow, I was revived. Refreshed. So incredibly excited to be there. Friends that had been there, both in America and people I had met along the way, spoke highly of this Adriatic town. And, wow. It did not disappoint. Even in the dark of night when I arrived, wandering from the bus station to the old town, asking directions of shop owners, servers and passersby along the way,  I remained struck by the city’s ancient beauty.   The bus station is on the eastern side of the harbour, so I had to talk down Obala Hrvatskog Narodnog Preporoda – the waterfront promenade known as Riva — to get into Diocletian’s Palace — which according to Lonely Planet, is not only a Roman ruin, but the “living soul of Split.”  Within the palace there are more than 200 buildings, and more than 3,000 inhabitants, along with the multitude of little shops (and bigger, more commercial shops, restaurants and cafes).   I found  Booze & Snooze  (aka Split Hostel), tucked behind the newstand in the old town promenade. A single red sign hung in the alley, pointing backpackers up a set of stone stairs, past a terrace and to the reception. Owned by two Aussie Croats, the hostel is known for its social setting, regularly leading packers on tours of the town, hitting up pubs throughout the old town, allowing travelers to get a guided tour of the nightlife.   The hostel, although small in size, proved to be the turning point in my trip. Not that the entire trip up to that point had been amazing, but in terms of setting the course for the rest of my trip, this was the instigator.   After checking in and being informed a group of people were heading to a pub shortly, I grabbed a quick bite down the promenade at a delicious smoothie/sandwich/salad shop (also owned by an Aussie) and returned, beer in hand, to join the backpackers already sitting outside, enjoying the fresh Adriatic night air, drinking and sharing their travel stories. Simon, the Aussie backpacker, stood out amongst the others in our group. The dark-haired, light eyed and incredibly handsome traveler had previously been in Vis for a wedding, spending three weeks on the island, enjoying the relaxed culture with his family and friends. Split was only his second stop on his trip, which was planned to end on Dec. 5 with a flight from Cairo taking him back home.   “It’s my goal to miss that flight home. I want to stay in Europe until I miss me mum,” he had said.   There was no doubt in my mind he would not do just that. ------------ Want more? Click here .