Oh, so this is how it feels to be Anthony Bourdain on No Reservations.
It’s around noontime and I’m sitting at a small metal table with my friend Julià in the middle of a forum once home to Cesar, the Roman Emperor, in the coastal town of Tarragona. It is absolutely gorgeous here; hands down the most beautiful place I’ve ever set foot in. The sun is high, there is a farmer’s market stand to my left, and in front of me is a man strumming a guitar, singing his heart out to the patrons nearby. This is fabulous.
looking at the open forum in Tarragona
A few moments later we are joined by Julià’s friends who have bumped into us sitting outside. Immediately they begin chatting in Catalan and I am lost. But they are kind enough to introduce themselves and attempt to speak with me in English. We flip flop in conversation, exchanging words in Spanish and English. I like them already.
It’s time for food. Julià explains to me that it is not yet lunch time, so we must order a few small appetizers. A bigger meal is expected later on in the afternoon for a real lunch, as custom goes. I’m asked what I want to eat, to which I reply “anything and everything.” I’m feeling the spirit of Catalonia so I want to eat whatever the Catalans eat. Just don’t serve me shellfish (I’m allergic!) and we’re good.
A man who appears to be the waiter is waved over. Apparently there is no menu, which I find odd but awesome. Julià takes lead on ordering our food: patatas bravas (roasted potatoes with a spicy tomato sauce), sepia amb deliali (a calamari-like fish cut in cubes tossed in a mayonaisse-based cream sauce), croquetas de bacalao (fried balls of cod fish) and pa amb tomàquet (cut up pieces of baquette topped with mashed tomatoes). For drinks we order a round of canya (beer) and sweet Vermut (fortified wine mixed with sparkling water). This is the first time I really feel like I’m blending in amongst the locals. Everything is foreign and new to me, but equally thrilling and infatuating. I could live like this forever.
bread with olive oil and salami and a glass of Vermut
croquetas de bacalao and canya
patatas bravas and canya
The food here by far is the best I’ve tasted since dining in Spain. It was clear that only the freshest, richest ingredients were used and in such a simple manner. I was in heaven.
I loved every dish placed down in front of me. The patatas bravas featured lightly pan-seared potatoes, tough on the outside but full of soft potato mash on the inside. The red sauce spooned on top was a moderate spice, yet refreshing and a wonderful addition. The croquetas were addicting quite frankly. It’s fried food, how could you go wrong?! The diced fish – though somewhat gummy – was tasty and surprisingly good to my palate (I don’t do seafood very much). I couldn’t stop eating. I was quite embarrassed as I noticed I had been eating more than the people next to me. It was just all too delicious. And I didn’t want to stop.
As I leaned back against my chair feeling a slight buzz on, I soaked in the atmosphere around me. Here I was in the middle of an ancient Roman forum surrounded by beautiful people speaking foreign tongue and stuffing my face with dishes I’ve never heard of. I’m sipping on what feels like an “old man drink” having the time of my life. This is as close I’ll be to living Anthony Bourdain’s life as I’ll ever get. Mission: accomplished.
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