Unfortunately, the U.S. hasn’t developed its rail system to make it an economically sound option for long distance travel. I refuse to pay ninety bucks to take the Amtrak train to D.C. when the bus costs only fifteen. In addition to the inconvenience, we’re missing out on the joy of the long train ride.
Each train in China has soft sleeper tickets (not too much cheaper than an air ticket), hard sleepers (a series of alcoves of triple-tier bunk beds with an aisle to walk around the car), soft seat (comfortable seats organized with tables between them) and hard seat (more like a bench).
Hard sleeper is always the top choice for a long journey. Tuck your bags under the beds and take out books and playing cards, snacks and a mug for tea (hot water taps are available on the train). This is how I’ve spent many an hour, provided I’m not gazing out the window watching farmers bent over rice paddies and other parts of the rural world go by. At various intervals the train conductors will walk through the aisles, selling overpriced yet underwhelming hot meals, newspapers, fruit or weird little knickknacks like socks. Luckily, you won’t be tempted by the hot meals, because your snack bag contains a big cup of instant noodles, hopefully the kind that comes with the little packet of seasoned oil to drip on top.
You will make friends. If you have a bottom bunk, someone will probably come sit on the edge of it. Even if you’re trying to take a nap. If there is any child on the train, his mother may commission you for some free English lessons. People will be curious about what you’re doing on the train, especially if they live outside of big cities where they’re not exposed to a lot of foreigners. Someone will come up to you, and initiate a conversation by asking some number of the following questions: “What are you doing in China?” “Do you like China?” “Where are you from?” “Are you married?” “How old are you?” “What is your job in China?” “How much money do you make?” “How much money do you make in China compared to what you’d make at home?” They will also offer you a bunch of different snacks which you’ve probably never tasted before. Likely spicy.
Lights go out at ten p.m. About an hour before arrival, music will be piped into speakers right next to your delicately sleeping ears to wake everyone up. It will work. You’ll have to deal with the squat toilet (quite difficult on a moving train!) which empties directly onto the moving tracks below. Hope you didn’t lose your ticket! You’ll have to hand that back in to the conductor. Say goodbye and good luck to your new friends as you part ways forever. And on to the next leg of your journey.
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I really like this piece! Captures the energy of train travel really well.