It was the first night of San Sebastian and our hostel managers at the Kaixo Hostel, two So-Cal looking surfer dudes, were throwing a dinner party for us. I had chosen to stay in that night as I had just tested my severely nonathletic body in a two hour bike tour of Donostia and was very much looking forward to getting to know everyone there. I was sharing a room with three girls who recently graduated from U Penn, doing the stereotypical “backpacking through Europe” excursion, a beautiful German girl named Verena who was a nurse back in Berlin, now accompanying a friend who was moving to San Sebastian for University, and a wickedly charming and funny Aussie body surfer named Luke who had just finished a successful tour with his band. We had just wrapped up a few hours of drinking wine and chatting about American pop culture when we realized it was about time to close the kitchen. So we all headed into our rooms to get ready for bed. Or so we thought.

As we all were unpacking, repacking, making our beds, and changing into pajamas, silly conversations stirred up. Having Luke as the only male in the room, us girls were fascinated with his stories of being on the road, his choice of tattoos, and his adventures in the ocean. His sense of humor was addicting and we were showing no signs of growing tiresome as we exchanged “lost in translation” moments and cultural references. We quoted movies, shared embarrassing moments, discussed our favorite animals, and revealed past horrible hostel stories. It was a night of too many giggles and very little sleep. But we all went to bed with big smiles on our faces, giddy with excitement for the rest of our stay.

Verena and I on the boardwalk of La Concha

Luke and I on the boardwalk of La Concha

The next day Verena, Luke, and I decided to be beach bums. A nice filling breakfast at the cafe downstairs (complete with cafe con leche, of course!) we set off to the surfers central at Ondaretta as Luke had based his trip to San Sebastian around hitting a few waves. Unfortunately the waves were barely rising so we planted on the sand and decided to catch a few rays instead. As we lay on the soft brown earth the three of us opened up about how travel had changed our lives, even in the most subtle ways. Our time in Europe had exposed us to a greater world where people were welcoming, genuine, helpful, and most of all – inspiring. We talked about what we had learned in our travels, the people we met, the food we ate, the culture we grew to love, and quickly became closer friends that afternoon. We each felt a special bond to each other and made a pact to spend as much time together during our stay in San Sebastian. We decided to test our new friendship with a spiritual hike up Monte Urgell Mendia to see the giant Jesus statue.

A quick pinxtos lunch off the beach and shower back at the hostel, we head back out to trek the mountain side of San Sebastian. We walked through Parque de Alderdi-Eder, Ayuntamiento, Carrousel Belle, Iglesia de Santa Maria, and even stopped for some gelato before tackling the hills. Adding his own musical touch to the adventure, Luke brought along his acoustic guitar, giving our trek its own signature soundtrack complete with impromptu sing alongs and covers. With every step we took, we sung out another line, let out a laugh, and took in a deep breath, pushing onward.

Verena and Luke singing a song for Jesus

The trek proved challenging but ridiculously fun and fulfilling. Without Verena and Luke by my side, I would have never completed the hike and felt so good after. Maybe Jesus heard our songs and decided to be on our side that afternoon.

Jesus approves our songs

The next few days I got to spend time with both Verena and Luke privately, and the more I got to know them the more I knew I’d miss them terribly once I had to leave. They were incredibly humorous and kind, and similar to my friends back home. I wanted to pack them in my suitcase and bring them to Madrid with me.

Leaving San Sebastian was bitter sweet, as all my previous goodbyes had been in Spain. After listening to countless Travel Geeks telling their stories of friendships on the road, I was finally understanding their sentiments. It was easy to make friends, it was easy to connect with other people around the world, and it was something indescribable to friends and family back home. I felt grateful and ecstatic to have bonded with such great people and I think of them everyday.

No Facebook wall post can ever come close to replacing those times together.

It’s around noontime and I’m sitting at a small metal table with my friend Julià in the middle of a forum once home to Cesar, the Roman Emperor, in the coastal town of Tarragona. It is absolutely gorgeous here; hands down the most beautiful place I’ve ever set foot in. The sun is high, there is a farmer’s market stand to my left, and in front of me is a man strumming a guitar, singing his heart out to the patrons nearby. This is fabulous.

looking at the open forum in Tarragona

A few moments later we are joined by Julià’s friends who have bumped into us sitting outside. Immediately they begin chatting in Catalan and I am lost. But they are kind enough to introduce themselves and attempt to speak with me in English. We flip flop in conversation, exchanging words in Spanish and English. I like them already.

It’s time for food. Julià explains to me that it is not yet lunch time, so we must order a few small appetizers. A bigger meal is expected later on in the afternoon for a real lunch, as custom goes. I’m asked what I want to eat, to which I reply “anything and everything.” I’m feeling the spirit of Catalonia so I want to eat whatever the Catalans eat. Just don’t serve me shellfish (I’m allergic!) and we’re good.

A man who appears to be the waiter is waved over. Apparently there is no menu, which I find odd but awesome. Julià takes lead on ordering our food: patatas bravas (roasted potatoes with a spicy tomato sauce), sepia amb deliali (a calamari-like fish cut in cubes tossed in a mayonaisse-based cream sauce), croquetas de bacalao (fried balls of cod fish) and pa amb tomàquet (cut up pieces of baquette topped with mashed tomatoes). For drinks we order a round of canya (beer) and sweet Vermut (fortified wine mixed with sparkling water). This is the first time I really feel like I’m blending in amongst the locals. Everything is foreign and new to me, but equally thrilling and infatuating. I could live like this forever.

bread with olive oil and salami and a glass of Vermut

croquetas de bacalao and canya

patatas bravas and canya

The food here by far is the best I’ve tasted since dining in Spain. It was clear that only the freshest, richest ingredients were used and in such a simple manner. I was in heaven.

I loved every dish placed down in front of me. The patatas bravas featured lightly pan-seared potatoes, tough on the outside but full of soft potato mash on the inside. The red sauce spooned on top was a moderate spice, yet refreshing and a wonderful addition. The croquetas were addicting quite frankly. It’s fried food, how could you go wrong?! The diced fish – though somewhat gummy – was tasty and surprisingly good to my palate (I don’t do seafood very much). I couldn’t stop eating. I was quite embarrassed as I noticed I had been eating more than the people next to me. It was just all too delicious. And I didn’t want to stop.

As I leaned back against my chair feeling a slight buzz on, I soaked in the atmosphere around me. Here I was in the middle of an ancient Roman forum surrounded by beautiful people speaking foreign tongue and stuffing my face with dishes I’ve never heard of. I’m sipping on what feels like an “old man drink” having the time of my life. This is as close I’ll be to living Anthony Bourdain’s life as I’ll ever get. Mission: accomplished.

I have waited over a year for this trip. I considered it a trip of a lifetime. As young as I may be, I knew coming to Spain would change my life, even if sounds cliché. And it couldn’t have happened at a more crucial time. With work dying down, a new Brooklyn residency, and contemplative career change, Spain was the perfect vacation I needed. Judgmental Jerry’s be damned – off I went!

First Stop: Barthelona

I was immediately greeted with a high sun beaming down on my shoulders, winding streets packed with pedestrians, bicyclists, taxis, and buses competing for space, and jaw-dropping architecture. Sure I was lost within an hour of my arrival in a foreign country, but hey – I was in Barcelona!

Luckily, thanks to the tourism info station, I found my way to Backpackers Casanova Hostel where I was able to quickly check in and saddle up for the next few days. Shortly after talking to the lovely hostel girl at the front desk, I threw out my travel itinerary. I wanted to experience Barcelona my way, with no set agenda, no time constraints, no required tours – just me and the city. And maybe some awesome new friends along the way.

I was shocked with how easy I found it to immediately connect with other people from around the world. Literally an hour after my arrival at BCN, I invited a girl from Atlanta to lunch. From there we instantly became best friends, and we bonded with another group of traveling Americans. We had our own little group for the next three days, it was wonderful. We drank, we ate, we walked, we laughed, we talked, we even survived a pickpocketing hassle! Oh it was great times. But I mostly have to thank Hira for being my partner in crime the entire time in Barcelona. Without her companionship I would not have enjoyed Barcelona as much as I did.

So, how did I spend my time in the super cool city of unfairly attractive people and massive architectural buildings known as Barcelona? Well, here’s a rundown of my day-to-day events:

Wed May 26 – Wake Up Call: I am not meant to be a backpacker

As I mentioned, a rough morning arrival due to not being able to distinguish the Barcelona Metro system did not exactly put me in the best of moods. “How do people do this for months on end?” I thought to myself as I struggled to keep my over packed backpack from breaking my limbs, leaving me to drag my bony body through Placa Catalunya in utter despair and heat exhaustion. “I’m never backpacking alone again. This is awful,” my Negative Nancy thoughts were kicking in.

Alas, I survived. My spirits quickly cheered up as I bonded with my new hostel mates and realized I could see all of what I wanted in Barcelona in these short three days. Off to walk the city I went!

We strolled through La Ramblas, Placa Catalunya, Placa de la Universitat, La Boqueria Market, Monumento a Colon, Port de Barcelona, Passeig de Gracia, and neighboring streets that night. Our heads always looking up at the buildings trying to figure out if this was a point of interest we marked down, or just a store front. Every building looked like it was significant of fame, history, or government. How would we know the difference?

Placa de Catalunya

Candy and Chocolates galore at La Boqueria

Monument to Columbus

Save for La Ramblas, which we were quickly put off by (I should point out I have no tolerance for tourist-filled spots, cheesy street performers, sketchy immigrants, and overpriced food), we enjoyed our downtown visit. Inside La Boqueria we ran wild tasting and smelling every little market stand, constantly impressed by the kindness of the merchants and the flavors in our mouths. Down at the Port we admired the giant statues and monuments lining the waterfront, taking tons of pictures at every angle possible. While walking back on our way to the hostel, we stopped at Placa de Catalunya and La Universitat to check out the amateur skate boarders, fashionable pedestrians, and red bicycles swishing by. Everything was new and exciting, yet somewhat familiar. I felt Barcelona to be like a European version of my New York City.  But I still craved more.

Thurs May 27 – I want to see the real Barcelona!

My first evening in Barcelona was nice, but not stellar. I had not eaten an authentic meal, and I had not yet gone off the beaten path. So today was the day to be a Travel Geek. First things first: a traditional Spanish breakfast. I was determined to eat like the locals and do major sight-seeing as I’d been recommended. So Hira and I got up early and hit the streets to kickoff our day with cafe con leche. Thankfully we didn’t have to venture far – a cute little pastry shop around the corner from the hostel hit the spot. One of the best cafe con leches I had and a fruit-filled pastry left me quite frankly, satisfied and smiling. This is what I was craving for. With that meal, I knew today would be a good day.

morning ritual: cafe con leche

Next stop: Parc de Guell to see the Gaudi structures. An easy and short Barcelona Metro ride, we arrived in the northern section of Barcelona. Quiet, sunny, and desert-like, Hira and I immediately fell in love.

“Hey are those escalators in the middle of the street?!” Yep! Giddy like school kids, we hiked up the San Francisco high road to the top of the entrance for Parc de Guell. A beautiful trail comprised of cactus plants, shrubbery, and panoramic views of the district, Parc de Guell amazed us. Too bad there were so many tourists! But what can you expect when you’re visiting an unbelievable landmark like this? The colorful tiles shining against the pristine rocks were beautiful and puzzling. How could one possess the skills to create something so intricate and complex, and resonate such a peaceful and magical place? We were dumbfounded, but in a good way.

view from Parc Guell overlooking La Sagrada Familia

tourist invasion of Gaudi’s Parc Guell

On to the next architectural masterpiece by Gaudi – La Sagrada Familia.

Just when I thought I couldn’t be more amazed, La Sagrada Familia took the cake. It was massive. Unbelievably huge. Where do I look first? How is it still under construction? This was one of the most articulate, giant, one of a kind, long-lasting cathedral I had ever seen. I tried to squeeze in every element of the church onto my camera frame but was not succeeding. There was just no way I could really capture the essence of La Sagrada Familia. . . Unless you have a Polaroid! I took out my unused Polaroid camera, finding it a perfect call to snap a photo of this monument. Success!

my attempt to get the entire Sagrada Familia church in one shot

“Is it lunch time yet?” All this walking and gawking was making us hungry. I suggested finding a bar/restaurant away from the tourists and packed with old men. I figured if the local elderly like the place, then we would too. I was right. A ten minute walk away from tourist central we came across a bar featuring “Menu del Dia” specials. Chatting with the waiter as he gave us a run down of the menu I said to him “Just bring us your favorite dishes.” Surprised yet delighted, the waiter obliged. What we were served, I have no idea, but it was delicious. I believe there was white fish sauteed with onions, tortilla de patata, and vegetables, along with a variety of other small dishes. We didn’t care, we ate enthusiastically, and happily sipped our Estrellas, relaxing our feet in the outside. The waiter fancied our enthusiasm so much, he ended up giving us two of his favorite Catalonian desserts, and a sweet discount on our lunch bill. This, my friends, was dining.

drinking like Barcelonians

We hadn’t had enough of Gaudi architecture so we decided to go back downtown and sneak a peek at Casa Batlló near the shopping section. Though we didn’t enter the museum, it was still a nice building to see. We then continued our day of architectural viewing by going out to the Arc de Triomf across town. I’m a nerd when it comes to triumphal arches. I love the history behind them, the relief statues adorning them, their size and power, and the many subtle details that create such artful pleasures to the eye. So, needless to say I was excited. At the Arc de Triomf there is a grand walkway lined with decorative pillars and filled with bicyclists, runners, and skaters. On a sunny day like this, it was a pleasant sight-seeing adventure, as we followed the path from the Arc to Parc de la Ciutadella. The Parc was absolutely gorgeous and a perfect rest stop for sunbathers and bookworms, to which Hira and I joined for a writing break. I especially loved the palm trees and fountains around us hiding in front of museums and institutions like the Barcelona Zoo and Geology Museum.

standing at Arc de Triomf

That night we joined my friend from New Jersey, Jordana, for our first meal of tapas and sangria off La Ramblas. Despite her vegan diet and therefore limited food options, Jordana was more than happy to share our love for simple fresh food and alcohol. We settled in an outdoor bar and ordered up a few platters of bread, jamon, and cheese plus a few rounds of sangria and cava. Our night cap was filled with a walk through the Gothic Quarter people watching and observing Barcelona streets come alive.

Fri May 28 – Last Chance

Today was beach day. Hira and I planned a little early get away in Barceloneta to Port Olympic for a few hours of sun and sand. Despite the morning clouds, we were optimistic that the day would turn out beautiful. Thankfully, the weather was on our side. Barceloneta was peaceful and quiet, empty of crowds, with small waves rolling over the shore. Before we sat we were in desperate need of coffee and breakfast. Realizing the lack of authentic and cheap restaurants on the boardwalk, we decided to just grab a coffee and hold our stomachs for a big lunch later in the day. Then we hit the sand and found a spot to lay down and begin our tanning session. This was our siesta time, so we soaked in the relaxation as much as possible. A few hours later we headed out in search of lunch, which we luckily found at a nearby cafeteria stop. Full of panini sandwiches and coca cola we headed back to our hostel for a shower break.

looking back at Port Olympic beach

We decided since it was our last night in Barcelona we’d take some time out in the evening to do our own sight-seeing then get dressed up and hit the town for a nice meal one last time together. It’s amazing how well you can clean up even when living out of a backpack!

I decided to browse through the backstreets of downtown Barcelona, passing by the Picasso Museum, University of Barcelona, MACBA, and some of the Gothic Quarter. It brought a smile to my face to be amongst the locals shopping, eating, drinking, and walking around. Barcelona is a bubbling city full of life, and this night proved no different.

churros y chocolate

Hira and I met around 8pm at a German bar on Rambla Catalunya where we enjoyed croquettas de jamon, glasses of Stella, and those delicious German fries with mayo-ketchup. We conversed about life, college, love, and everything we had experienced in Spain and were looking forward to in the weeks ahead. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful first phase of my trip in Spain.

Barcelona was swell. I will miss its unfairly attractive people, gorgeous weather, fascinating architecture, and simple food. I made some amazing friendships, and was able to get a first glimpse into the Spanish culture. I’m glad I took that Travel Geek plunge afterall.

You can read my journal entries from Barcelona, Spain here. Next up: Read my piece on my favorite traditional dishes of Catalonia and my weekend stay with friends and locals in Tarragona.

Thrifty Thrills is a monthly column where I bring you the best of budget, backpacker and student-minded bang-ups, bites, beds and beers throughout Europe. I’m constantly on the prowl for cool and inexpensive (preferably free!) sightseeing spots, things to eat, places to sleep and drinks to quaff, so if you’ve got the inside scoop on someplace and think I should know about it, leave me a comment below!

Budapest is probably one of the coolest European cities I’ve been to. I went not expecting much, thinking Budapest would be a drab series of concrete apartment blocks set among a maze of grimy streets. What I discovered is that, in fact, Budapest is really cosmopolitan and quite beautiful. At least when I visited a couple of years ago, it was in an interesting interlude between “former Eastern Bloc” and swinging hip European capital. On any given city block, you are bound to pass a chic wine bar with dim lighting and glammed up people laying around on pillows on the floor next door to an abandoned building with illegible graffiti smeared down one wall and a few half-torn rock band flyers hanging next to a broken out window.

Suffice it to say that I really liked Budapest and I would very much like to go back sometime soon. During my stay, I learned that the city is actually split into two smaller towns, Buda and Pest (yep!) by the Danube River and that is has easily the most beautiful parliament building in all of Europe. I also discovered it is a great city in which to experience a traditional Turkish bath and that there are plenty of cheap student travel options in Budapest, if you know where to find them.



Budget Bang-Ups

One thing I really loved about Budapest, especially as a student traveler, is that there is no shortage of cheap and free things to do around town to keep yourself busy during the day. In fact, Budapest’s most famous attraction, Castle Hill is basically open free to everyone. Here on the Buda side of the city, you’ll find the Royal Palace, known as Buda Castle, which includes the Budapest History Museum, the Hungarian National Gallery and the National Library, as well as a number of churches, towers and statues, and Fisherman’s Bastion, a lofty defense terrace with absolutely amazing views of the Danube River and Pest.

There is no entrance fee to wander the grounds and surrounds of Castle Hill, including most of the exteriors of the Royal Palace and Fisherman’s Bastion, and these are definitely the best spots up there. To get in, for instance, to the Castle Museum, costs a mere 650 Forint (roughly US$3), while International Student Identity Card holders get in for free on the first Saturday of the month.

Buda Castle

Another super cool free activity in Budapest is walking one or more of the beautiful bridges that connect the two sides of the city across the Danube. The most famous of these is the Széchenyi Chain Bridge, a suspension bridge that dates back to 1849 and was the first permanent bridge in Budapest. There is a pedestrian footpath the runs along one side of this absolutely gorgeous bridge, and although the walk can feel a bit intimidating at times as cars rumble past giving the bridge an unnerving shake, it is a really worthwhile way to see the city (and also a great way to save on transportation costs). A walk across takes 20-30 minutes.

Széchenyi Chain Bridge

Map

Budget Beers

Drinking in Budapest can be expensive or cheap, depending upon which part of the city you’re in and which type of bar you’re at. Hungarians love their beer, but the country also has a wine-producing region that knocks out some fantastic, highly underrated wines. If you want to sample some, just head into any small convenience store or supermarket and buy a bottle or two, which should only set you back 700-800 Forint (about US$4-5).

To get off the tourist track and find the cheapest beers (and meals) in town, you’ve got to head out into the suburbs a little ways. One bar that’s great to start out with is Mister Sörház. Purportedly the largest bar in Budapest, this laid back place brews its own very tasty lager and offers hearty meals that won’t set you back more than a few dollars, including drinks. The staff here generally doesn’t speak much English, but as long as you know the Hungarian word for beer (sör, sounds like “shuh”), you’ll be fine. To get here, take bus numbers 5, 104/A or 204 to the Kazinczy utca stop.

Mister Sörház

Map

To learn more about Budapest, check out Sosauce user Stephen’s trip to Hungary:

For a few more ways to travel cheap in Budapest, check out my recent Students In Europe blog entry, ‘4 Great Ways to Spend 2000 Forint’.

Thrifty Thrills is a weekly column where I bring you the best of budget, backpacker and student-minded bang-ups, bites, beds and beers throughout Europe. I’m constantly on the prowl for cool and inexpensive (preferably free!) sightseeing spots, things to eat, places to sleep and drinks to quaff, so if you’ve got the inside scoop on someplace and think I should know about it, leave me a comment below!

Let us take a moment to uncover a few sweet (and cheap!) tidbits in the birthplace of Western Civilization: Athens, Greece. First of all, Athens is incredibly old. It has been inhabited since 3000 BC and was the seat of Classical culture, architecture and art throughout ancient history. Now, Athens is an extraordinarily massive, sprawling series of neighborhoods that satellite around the oldest structures at the hill of Acropolis. The Parthenon, Ancient Agora and Temple of Zeus are just three of the many impressive stone structures that lend Athens its title as one of the world’s most historic places.

Traditionally, Athens was a student town, too. The ancient Greeks were fond of education (remember Plato and Socrates?) and pretty much invented the democratic form of schooling still practiced throughout the Western world today. So, there is a strong student element to Athens, especially in Omonia and Exarcheia, the city’s most intellectual and bohemian districts, which are home to Athens Polytechnic Institute and most of the city’s student population.

Budget Bang-Ups

Athens is a city to bike in. It’s a wonderful series of narrow, winding streets, whitewashed stone houses and interesting hillsides that make for an amazing day of sightseeing on two wheels. In fact, cycling is so popular in Athens that a number of free bicycle tours have popped up, catering to cycle-happy budget travelers.

The General Secretariat for the Youth of Athens has partnered up with some of the city’s non-government organizations to organize Bike Around Your Town, a program of free bike tours offered every weekend all year. Tours are open to the youth of Athens and all visitors and bring people around to the city’s main sites, with a guided introduction to places of cultural and environmental interest.

If you want to participate in one of the free bike tours of Athens (bikes are provided and tours are designed for beginner cyclists), you have to book at least 10 days in advance. Hours of the tours are Saturday and Sunday 10 am – 3 pm.

Bike Around Your Town

General Secretariat for the Youth

admin@anthropos.gr or +30 8011 19 19 00

www.neagenia.gr

The Acropolis is perhaps the most famous site in all of Athens and one of the most iconic structures in the world, with its crumbling columns and ruined walls set on a hilltop overlooking the city. The Acropolis is home to a number of the most famous Classical Greek buildings, including the Parthenon, the Agora, the Temple of Zeus and the Erectheum. If you’re a study abroad student or attend a European university, be sure to bring your student ID card for free entrance to the Acropolis! Normal entrance fees are €12.

The Acropolis

Atenas, Attikí

Map

Budget Bargains

So, you’re in Greece having the time of your life, enjoying the amazing warmth of the Mediterranean sun and the beautiful blue and white hues of the buildings reflecting on the sea. What you need now are some good souvenirs to bring home as a reminder of your fantastic Grecian getaway. That’s when you head to Plaka, a historic district of Old Athens where souvenir shops burst with cheap knickknacks. Ermou Street, just off Syntagama Square, is particularly nice for reasonably priced goodies, from those lovely handcrafted knit purses to cute statuettes of mythic Greek gods and warriors.

Ermou Street Shopping District

Ερμού, Αθήνα

Map

To learn more about Athens, check out Sosauce user Lena’s trip to Greece. You can also bookmark Athens as your destination pick with the new Sosauce Guide.

Megan Eaves is an avid, writer, interculturalist and gypsy. She is a featured blogger on StudentsInEurope.com and spends most of her days writing about far off places. She’s the author of two travel guidebooks and, when she isn’t traveling (or writing, or both), she loves to sample local beers with her Irish hubby. Check out her writing at www.meganeaveswriting.com, or follow her on Twitter @megoizzy.

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Read her previous article on travel here.

I live in Northern Italy. I love the country and feel at home, most of the time. Sometimes I feel very different than the people I grocery shop with and share a post office with because I was born in Florida to an American mother and an Italian father. I grew up bilingual and bicultural, hopping continuously between both countries.

Because I love Italy I feel that I am allowed to poke a little fun at it. This is an article full of very generalized information, and by no means to be taken as a golden truth for everyone. That said, I’d like to bring you on a little tour of the Italian customs that make me giggle.

The Untouchable Rooms

If a family can afford a large enough home, it usually includes some special rooms that I call ‘untouchable’. The untouchable rooms are fully decorated and always clean. The house usually has an untouchable kitchen, living room and bathroom. The kitchen is fully equipped, has lots of counter and cabinet space and a table always covered with a nice tablecloth and centerpiece (usually tacky glass fruit or something of the likes). There is a fridge, but only for extra storage space. The living room has a comfortable couch, a rug, cabinets full of silverware and glassware for special occasions. The bathroom is always spotless, with matching towels hanging in a perfectly folded way. These rooms are never used. No one enjoys the couch, no one takes a shower in the bathroom, no one cuts vegetables on the kitchen counter. They are rooms that people put time and money into decorating and then let them be. The only use these rooms get are when guests are given a tour of the house.

You might be asking: so where do they cook and eat? Well, in what would be a large garage, the family sets up a living space and kitchen. They don’t use the brand new stove and oven upstairs, they use the hotplate downstairs. They don’t use the new fridge, they use the old one downstairs. There is a bathroom that the whole family uses. Even when it is occupied, other family members will wait their turn rather than use the untouchable bathroom upstairs. All the living happens in the space downstairs. The untouchable rooms aren’t even glanced at when the family moves through or near them to get to their bedrooms.

Cleaning Is Life

Cleaning. Italian mothers love to do it. I have a friend who bought his own house last year. His mother plans her week around cleaning his son’s and daughter’s houses. She even cleans an empty apartment that her daughter owns. Another friend who goes to college in another city has to submit to his roommate’s mother. About once a month she takes the two hour train ride to go clean her son’s apartment. If you take a stroll around a small town, you will see women sweeping the sidewalk next to their house or washing the outside walls of the house with a bucket of soapy water and a sponge. It may be cold and windy outside, but there they are, sweeping up the leaves that will be right back as soon as they are done.

Another favorite past time of the Italian mother is ironing. There are no dryers in Italy, everyone hangs their clothes to dry, so the Italian woman feels that she must attack every tiny wrinkle that remains in the clothes. My aunt irons undershirts; something that no one ever sees. When I told my Italian mother in law that my mother doesn’t iron anything except for her karate uniform, she said:

‘Oh, she pays a cleaner to do it.’

‘No,’ I replied, ‘she simply doesn’t iron anything.’

‘What do you mean? How?’

‘Well, she stopped years ago and nobody has noticed the difference.’

My mother in law became quiet and puzzled.

Bureaucracy

Getting paperwork done in Italy is scary. Anytime I have to get something official taken care of, I psychologically prepare myself to face angry employees, long lines, traffic, questions and filling out countless forms. What does it take to get a driver’s license in the United States? About $35 and an hour or two of your time. Here’s the process in Italy:

1. You need to go to the DMV and wait an hour in line just to get some paperwork that you need to bring to other places.

2. With one of those forms you go to the post office and pay €14 for a state tax stamp.

3. You bring another form to the hospital clinic and pay €32 for an eye check up.

4. You bring your tax stamp and your doctor’s note back to the DMV to set up an appointment for your written exam (No, you can’t set up an appointment on the phone or on the internet). This requires more waiting and a small fee.

5. You take your written exam. With luck you pass. You bring your certificate to a driver’s school. You can choose to take lessons at the school (€12 for half an hour) or practice privately. Then you must take the driving test through the school. If you don’t take any lessons and just take the exam, it will cost you €200.

Of course, you have to wait weeks for any of the appointments.

Mothers and their Children

Many Italian mothers treat undershirts as life savers. It seems that if their child doesn’t wear one they will immediately become ill. Wool in the winter, cotton in the summer. Even if you wear a tank top, you must wear a tank top undershirt. Yes, in August as well.

Sweating. I always thought that sweating helps the body cool off while getting rid of toxins. In Italy, sweating means that you may get sick. Mothers just don’t want their kids to sweat. I have seen mothers come to the park just to make sure their kids weren’t sweating. If they were, they would bring them home.

The Swimming Pool

I grew up in Florida, so I may be extra-familiar with pools, but I don’t think I’m wrong when I say that Italians are strange in their swimming pool ways. Most Italians don’t have their own swimming pool, so they go to the community pool in the summer. Here’s how you enjoy a day at the pool:

You don’t wear your bathing suit under your clothes, you change in a changing booth. You always wear sandals, everywhere. You can take them off only immediately before you enter the water. When you get out of the water, you must put on a robe and wear your sandals. Before going home, you must take a shower and blow dry your hair, even in the summer time.

Vacations At The Seaside

Italy isn’t known for its beaches but the Northern Adriatic coast becomes a beehive in the summer. The lazy Italians that don’t want to travel far flock to the coast and spend their vacation in an overcrowded, loud campsite or in a hotel. The beaches are not nice, everything is expensive and there are just too many people. The funny thing is that they spend nearly what they would if they traveled to another nicer spot in the Mediterranean. I do not understand the logic. Of course, an Italian can not go to the beach if they do not have an umbrella, lounge chairs, a nearby shower, bathroom and restaurant. The umbrellas and chairs are all set in perfect order by the establishments that own a piece of the beach. You are not allowed to move the umbrellas or chairs. If you arrive late one day, your umbrella will be several rows away from the sea so that your view is the back of someone’s head. To them, this is vacation.



Travel is what naturally runs in Anna’s veins. After studies in theater, anthropology and photography, she lived out of a backpack for a couple of years in various countries. She is now on a baby making break, but will be back on the road as soon as possible with the added passion of a mother introducing her child to the World.

Today, we’re going to explore the thrills of Dublin, and really, who doesn’t want to go to Dublin? Before I first visited the Irish capital, I had visions of thick, milky pints of stout lined up along an aged wooden bar counter while a crusty old man with a fiddle played in the corner. And you know what? At the risk of sounding totally trite, my dream was completely fulfilled.

Later, I went back to live there to get my Master’s degree and I really learned the ins and outs of Dublin. It’s an amazing city, but it’s also an expensive city! So, in a place where nothing comes cheap, I’m going to reveal some of my insider student secrets for making the most of Dublin’s Fair City on a budget.

Budget Bang-Ups

Parks parks parks. The trouble with visiting Dublin’s parks is that the weather is rarely cooperative. It will rain, then the sun will come out for awhile, then the wind will whip up and more rain will drizzle. It’s totally unpredictable. But, if you’re adventurous and don’t mind getting the hems of your trousers a little wet, you can have an amazing day filled with free delights, just by exploring the city’s many fantastic parks and gardens.

St. Stephen’s Green is the usual place to begin. A lovely city garden right in the middle of the busiest area of town, it is manicured with blooming flowers and sculpted lawns.

St. Stephen’s Green

Merrion Square is another gorgeous park not far away, and it is usually less crowded than Stephen’s Green. There are lots of great statues of Dublin’s most famous sons scattered around the green. Look out for a colorful monument to the infamous Oscar Wilde.

Merrion Square Park

On the north side of the city, there are two amazing gems: Phoenix Park, which is the largest urban park in all of Europe, and the National Botanic Gardens. Phoenix Park is so sprawling that you could get lost in it. While you’re wandering, look out for the herd of wild deer that live in one of the vales on the west side of the park. At the National Botanic Gardens, you can pack a picnic and explore some of Ireland’s native plants and flowers. If you go on a Sunday, there are free, guided tours at noon and 2:30 pm.

Phoenix Park

National Botanic Gardens

Budget Bites

Dublin is an expensive city to eat in. That is, unless you go to this hidden gem: the Epicurean Food Hall. Snuggled inside a building on Liffey Street on Dublin’s north side, you won’t go to this awesome international food court unless you know where it is. Dozens of fast food vendors sell extremely fresh flavors from around the world, from Chinese to Turkish and Thai. Being from New Mexico, I am pretty picky about my Mexican cuisine, but at the Taco Taco counter, you’ll order some of the most authentic Mexican tacos around, prepared by chefs that are actually from Mexico.

Since the food here is technically “fast food,” prices match, with plenty of all-you-can-eat deals at the Chinese places. If you’re looking to fill your stomach for the next three days, order a doner kebab from Istanbul Mediterranean Food & Kebab House and you won’t need to eat for days. To find it, walk north on Lower Liffey Street from the river and duck into the large corridor on the right side. If you reach the Luas tram tracks, you’ve gone too far.

Epicurean Food Hall

Megan Eaves is an avid, writer, interculturalist and gypsy. She is a featured blogger on StudentsInEurope.com and spends most of her days writing about far off places. She’s the author of two travel guidebooks and, when she isn’t traveling (or writing, or both), she loves to sample local beers with her Irish hubby. Check out her writing at www.meganeaveswriting.com, or follow her on Twitter @megoizzy.

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Megan Eaves of Students in Europe

Welcome to the first edition of Thrifty Thrills: a monthly column where I bring you the best of budget, backpacker and student-minded bang-ups, bites, beds and beers throughout Europe. I’m constantly on the prowl for cool and inexpensive (preferably free!) sightseeing spots, things to eat, places to sleep and drinks to quaff, so if you’ve got the inside scoop on someplace and think I should know about it, leave me a comment below!

Kicking off today, I thought I’d start with Bratislava. Now, I’m aware of the reputation that Bratislava has – both as a cheap “Eastern European” paradise, and as a crazy home of psychopaths (I haven’t actually seen the Hostel movies, but I’ve pretty much got the idea) – but it is a city that will surprise you on both counts. It certainly surprised me.

Budget bang-ups: There are about a million churches in Bratislava (OK, maybe not quite a million. But a lot.), and most of them are free. From these, you can really get a good sense of the city’s connection to religion, as well as its architecture. Start at the Church of St. Elizabeth, affectionately nicknamed “The Blue Church” (for obvious reasons). This is one of the coolest art nouveaux buildings in Bratislava.

Church of St. Elizabeth (Kostol svätej Alžbety)
Bezručova 4
Map

Budget beds: Downtown Backpackers Bratislava is pretty much the cheapest, friendliest hostel bed you’ll find in the city. To boot, it’s within a short walk of the main Old Town area and it has a nice bar downstairs. They offer free wifi and computers and have a garden that is open during the summer. What I particularly liked about Downtown Backpackers Bratislava were the lovely dark mahogany furnishings and rich colors that gave the whole place an opulent atmosphere. Dorm beds here run €13 and up during summer.

Downtown Backpackers Bratislava
Panenská 31
Map
Website

View my entire trip to Bratislava on Sosauce below complete with photos, journals, and reviews. For more information on budget travel for students, visit Students in Europe online.

Megan Eaves is an avid, writer, interculturalist and gypsy. She is a featured blogger on StudentsInEurope.com and spends most of her days writing about far off places. She’s the author of two travel guidebooks and, when she isn’t traveling (or writing, or both), she loves to sample local beers with her Irish hubby. Check out her writing at www.meganeaveswriting.com, or follow her on Twitter @megoizzy.

Join the travel partnership network. Build a better travel blog with Travel Blog Success and show off your travel experiences as a Travel Geek affiliate with Sosauce

The Mathematical Bridge, Queen’s College

As I wrote last time about a Mathematical River, it seems sensible to start with this ‘Mathematical Bridge’! Popular myth asserts that the original design was so clever that it was held together simply by gravity, a feat attributed to anyone from undergraduate students to Isaac Newton, depending on who’s telling the tale. But (the story goes) when perplexed Fellows dismantled the bridge in an attempt to understand its construction, they were unable to put it back together again without resorting to using the nuts and bolts which can be seen today. Sadly, the bolts have always been needed, although as first built (in 1749) they were invisible to those crossing the bridge – and it is at least true that it didn’t require any nails!

Trinity College, Cambridge

It’s unlikely, then, that Newton had a hand in the mathematical bridge, since he died twenty years before it’s construction, but that won’t dent his mathematical legacy too much. Trinity College has always had a strong mathematical reputation, admitting almost a fifth of undergraduates in the subject (of 31 colleges in total), with Newton easily their most famous predecessor. He measured the speed of sound in one of the courtyards; the library holds his annotated first edition of Principia Mathematica (and a lock of his hair!); and the tree outside the main gate is claimed to be a descendant of his famous apple tree.

CMS, Cambridge

Until the mid-20th century, there was no central mathematics department, and instead work was done in the colleges. Today, however, research activity is concentrated at the Centre for Mathematical Sciences. It’s often joked that to find the mathematics department at a university you should look for the ugliest building, but the CMS, which opened in 2003, is a world away from 60s brutalist concrete. The ‘low energy’ design exploits natural ventilation to control the internal environment, and it’s green in a more literal sense too, with the main core having a grass roof. But it’s clearly a building meant for mathematicians, as the first things the architects were asked to design were the coffee rooms. Like the city it resides in, it’s a wonderful place to contemplate mathematics, and I hope I’ll be back again next year.



Graeme Taylor believes that travel should be approached in the spirit of mathematical exploration, not just by the numbers – by both seeking out new territory, and discovering previously overlooked delights in familiar surroundings.

Having recently realized it has been two solid years since I left the country, my anticipation to be bitten by the travel bug again has grown into giddy excitement. I am eager to taste the breeze of another great city, along with its gorgeous architecture, delicious food, and engaging language; Spain can not come soon enough. Though I am traveling by myself as a young twenty-something gal, I have minimal fears. In fact, I did not give it much thought to go solo once I kept getting rejected invites by friends and family. If there is anything that I have learned while being an avid travel community member, it’s that “now or never” is entirely too true. If I don’t go out and live out my dreams now while I’m young, then more excuses, job situations, money problems – essentially LIFE – will get in the way. And I am determined to not let that happen!

Luckily, being a part of the Travel Geeks I had some really great people and blogs to help me steer this trip into action. The patience and expertise of Brian at No Debt World Travel must be thanked firstly. If I had never read his e-book, I would have never gotten the courage to book my flights. His wise words of backpacking advice (see the blog post Brian wrote specifically on me and my upcoming trip) lead the way for me to really make this trip happen, and I am very grateful for his assistance. Some first orders of business Brian recommended was searching around for fare deals on Kayak.com using their multi-trip options. From there I was able to score a round trip flight through Barcelona and Madrid at less than $800! It was my birthday present to myself, and probably the best gift at that!

Next phase was booking the hostels, which Brian suggested using Hostel World‘s 80% or better rating to find a hostel that would best fit my accommodation needs. Though I’m still kinking out a few details in that department, I plan on booking my hostels soon through them. Some other pieces of advice for this newbie:

• pack lightly
• bring your phone and charger to use in emergency or use as an alarm clock
• use Skype to communicate with friends and family back home
• don’t be afraid to be outgoing and social
• get a good, long-lasting backpack to substitute carry-on luggage
• consider Couch Surfing
• use your hostel expenses to decide your budget

Dually noted! I am now in preparation of all these things and am excited to get started.

For the trip itself, I wanted a short vacation with enough time to see and do a number of things. I will be spending a total of 10 days in Spain traveling to and from Barcelona, San Sebastian, and Madrid. I chose these destinations because I did want to see the typical tourist attractions, but I was also quite inspired by the amazing Sosauce travel photos I kept seeing time and again. That, and I wanted to pretend I was Anthony Bourdain for once and follow in his traveling foot steps.

This will be my guide during my stay; leading me to the best in sight seeing, dining, dancing, and transportation. I used the No Reservations’ Travel Guides to find the best restaurants Tony visited, EuroCheapo for budget-friendly eateries and sights, Spain Guides for general information, and Off Track Planet’s list of fun things to see and do in Madrid.

Needless to say – prepared or not – I am beyond excited to spend some quiet time on the beaches of Spain surrounded by beautiful people, sights, and smells. Viva Espana!

Have some traveling advice for this newbie Travel Geek? Share your thoughts of wisdom with me in the comments below and help make my dream trip come true!